Field Tote

Build your own tool transportation system

01. This shows the tote before the author primed and painted it. If you decide not to paint it, he recommends using a clear coat to seal it.

02. Although not required, the author chose to paint his totes.

Items needed to build this field tote:

• (1) 1/2 × 16 × 32-inch plywood (preferably sanded on both sides)
• (1) 3/16 × 15 × 33-inch plywood (I used Luan)
• (4) Flat washers or pennies
• (1) 1-inch diameter × 7-inch wood dowel
• (2) 1/2 × 3/4 × 4-inch pine
• (1) 1-inch diameter steel paddle drill bit
• (1) Medium-size C clamp
• (4) Self-stick hook-and-loop Velcro sets or magnets and steel washers
• Wood glue
• CA glue with kicker
• Roll of masking tape

There are many field totes on the market that are available in various sizes and configurations, so why the need for another? Good question! Being an "old-school" modeler who takes an unhealthy delight in reinventing the wheel, or, in this case, the field tote, I wanted a project, so I started by sketching some of the features that I felt would be useful, practical, and aesthetically pleasing.

This phase of a project is always the most enjoyable. Many concepts get refined, reduced, and discarded in this phase. After all ideas have been exhausted or incorporated, it’s time to measure my RC transmitters and assemble the items that I wanted the tote to tote.

One item that stayed on the list of "must haves" was the 20° transmitter angle resting station. It seems much more ergonomic to manipulate preflight checks when the transmitter is at an angle and not vertical or lying flat on the ground.

With carry handles now incorporated on almost all of the transmitters, I thought that the transmitter handle accommodation opening was not only practical but contributed to the aesthetic category as well. A space for another transmitter opposite the sloping rest gives this tote a bit of versatility and balance. Two sliding drawers, along with an open top space, offer a place to carry a few tools, glue, rubber bands, etc.

Finally, one of the considerations was the physical size of the tote—not too large, but large enough to bring the essentials, and not so small that, along with the tote, I would need to carry an additional container of whatever would not fit in the one-stop shop.

With that, it was time to build the prototype.

All of the parts lay out on two different thicknesses of plywood sheets: 1/2 inch and 3/16 inch. Masking tape was used to hold each step together while the wood glue dried. The parts are mostly right-angle construction, so eyeballing the alignment should work just fine, but it never hurts to exercise the combination square just for a little self-assurance. The tote builds quickly, and before you know it, the nine assembly steps will provide you with a completed tote.

The only concern that I had was drilling the 1-inch diameter hole at a 20° angle on Part 9. I happen to have a tilting drill press in my shop, so it was just a matter of setting the angle and hitting the power switch, but I recognize that not all modelers might have that tool. For those who do not have an angled drill press, I have included a drilling gauge (Parts G1 and G2) with the parts drawings. I used this gauge to make sure that it provided a problem-free result, and it was just as accurate as the part drilled on the drill-press.

The only other area that needs some additional comments are the two drawers. Both drawers are identical and are used as fixtures to position the four drawer rails. I started with the two bottom drawer rails and slid the bottom drawer onto the rails after I tack-glued the four 1/4-inch bolt washer spacers (you can also substitute four pennies) onto the top of the bottom drawer (Step 7).

Glue the remaining two rails in place. I used CA glue to fix all four rails to the sides of the drawer cavity. After that, install the drawer fronts, maintaining an equal gap around the entire circumference of the drawer fronts, the drawer cavity, and between the drawers.

Step 9 is optional. I kind of like the drawer and open top space dividers, so these dividers are included with the parts drawings. Another option is placing the runners (Part 20) on the bottom of the tote. Some might prefer to use four rubber feet, but these are not shown anywhere on the drawings.

I thought that by using the two wooden runners it would be easier to drag it across the floor of my van if it is at the limit of my reach, but that’s just my preference.

While we are discussing dragging the tote across the great expanses of van floors, this might be a good place to revisit the design phase again.

Part of the early thinking was that if it did, in fact, become necessary to drag the tote, the angled short sides would ride up over any obstacle encountered on the journey to the van exit. I know, I know: What are the odds of that happening? But if it does, you’re covered.

That’s pretty much all there is to it. You just need to sand everything down with special attention to the sharp edges; I like to slightly round them all.

I used two different "drawer hold-in" methods and both worked equally well. The first was two sticky-back Velcro pads affixed to the left and right side of the drawer back, and two sticky-back Velcro pads to the back of the drawer cavity.

The other option is one magnet glued to the center of each drawer back and a steel washer, aligned with the magnet, glued to the back of the drawer cavity. A spacer might be needed to accomplish the proper distance between the contact points. Again, it’s your choice as to what system you would like to use.

After you are satisfied with the smoothness of the sanded wood, prime the entire tote, fill in any nicks or gaps, and spray on the color coat. The local vinyl-cutting sign store provided my AMA number that was applied to the side opposite the drawers.

Now, add the tools you wish to the drawers and open top area. Gently place the RC transmitter upon its throne, and with that final royal motion, you are ready to head to the flying field—tote too!