Detailing your ARF Aircraft
Written by Mark Wilkins Adding scale appeal to an Albatros D.Va How-to As seen in the October 2014 issue of Model Aviation.
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Last year I received the Hobby Express (formerly Hobby Lobby) Albatros D.Va as a Christmas present. This ARF’s all-up weight is roughly 4 pounds. Given its 52-inch wingspan, I felt it would fly well. This was important because I planned to add some scale details and a sound module, which would increase the overall weight. (Editor’s note: The Albatros D.Va is no longer available from Hobby Express.) The airplane came nicely packaged with only a few minor dings. It also included a full rigging kit, which is a nice feature. I had plans to take this ARF to the next level, which included a new paint scheme, detailed guns and engine, a sound module, a shock-absorbing tail skid, and a pilot. The techniques used to detail these components can be used on any ARF or kit. The aircraft I chose to inspire my new version of this Albatros was flown by Hans Joachim von Hippel of Jasta 71. Mine wasn’t going to adhere strictly to this version because I planned an olive-green turtledeck and engine cowl and different wheel covers.
Fuselage
My first step was to replace the fuselage’s side panel covering with 1/32 balsa sheet. The structure beneath the covering showed, giving the side a “waffled” appearance, so I reluctantly began peeling back the covering to expose the framework. The process of applying the panels goes quickly and only takes a day to complete, following the panel lines of the original airplane. Alternatively, you can keep the covering sides and simply move on to priming them for the faux wood grain.Graining the fuselage is done in panels. The two sides were done first, then the bottom. Working on every other panel is the most efficient method.
After the sides have been sheathed, the panel edges are feathered to fair in with the top and bottom of the fuselage. Some lightweight spackle completed the fairing process. I gave the sides a basecoat of light-beige acrylic paint to serve as the foundation of the faux wood grain. You can experiment to achieve the desired color and appearance of your wood grain. You could make it extremely light or darker as wood becomes with age. I selected a midtone.
Sound Module
I chose a sound module offered by Mr. RC Sound, because of its compact nature, weight, and impressive Mercedes engine sound. I mounted the speaker on the underside of the fuselage, slightly forward of the lower wing’s LE. To mount the speaker, you’ll need to make a plywood plate that accepts the speaker housing, which is then epoxied to the inside of the fuselage. The speaker slides into place, and is secured with two removable screws. The final phase of this process was to position the soundboard in the front of the cockpit in a protected and unoccupied area close to the CG. A hatch was cut into the sheathing, and a 3/16 balsa shelf was epoxied into place. Velcro was applied to the shelf to mount the sound module and allow its easy removal. I made a curved cover and fastened it in place with four button-head screws.Spandau Machine Guns
Before proceeding to the wood grain, I wanted to finish modifications to the fuselage’s basic structure. The apertures for the twin Spandau machine guns were next. The manufacturer mounted the guns well above the fuselage, but on the full-scale Albatros, the guns were mounted lower to offer better visibility for pilots. I chose to copy this configuration and add some scale details to the guns. The first step was to cut openings in the turtledeck to place the guns. Test-fit the guns as you carefully carve the new openings so that you don’t remove more material than necessary. The guns that come with this ARF require only a few details to make them scalelike—which basically meant adding breech levers and ammunition feeds/dumps. The breech levers were made from a ballpoint straight pin, toothpicks, scrap balsa, and aluminum. The breech feeds/dumps were made from scrap aluminum, balsa, short sections of brass tubing, and adhesive-backed aluminum foil. The guns were painted a gunmetal color, antiqued with a black wash, and epoxied into their slots.Wood Grain
With the significant fuselage modifications out of the way, it’s time to apply the faux wood grain to the fuselage. This is easier than it looks, and lots of fun! You want to do individual panels as were on the full-scale airplane. I did the two sides first, then the bottom. Working on alternate panels is the most efficient method. The glaze was made from Liquitex Matte Medium burnt-umber acrylic paint, and water. You want a smooth consistency comparable to heavy cream. If you’ve never done this before, make up some test panels and experiment until you get the feel for it. Acrylic paint dries quickly, making it possible to do the entire airplane in a day or so. Alternating the grain direction is a good way to set each panel off from its neighbor. The fuselage bottom was done in the same fashion. After the grain is completed, you can paint the turtledeck, restore it to its original red, or choose another treatment entirely. You could even panel the top!Tail Skid
The model comes with a preformed wire tail skid, which is fine, but I preferred a shock-absorbing tail skid because my club’s field can be bumpy! The first step is to cut out an opening to receive the skid and bungee. You’ll need to relocate the hole for the rigging support. The skid and the cleat that serves as a skid rest and tie-down point for the bungee were made from cherry wood. This piece was put in the triangular tail skid fairing and epoxied.A shock-absorbing tail skid was added for flying from a less-than-perfect field.
I soldered a short section of brass tube to the bottom of the staple that serves as a pivot point for the bolt, securing the skid to the airplane. I made a pair of simple aluminum rigging tangs to neatly slide beneath the bolt that secures the staple to the fuselage fairing. Rubber bands serve as bungees. This method can be used on nearly every airplane with this type of skid.
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