Building Your First Kit

Stan Alexander [email protected] Photos by the author

As seen in the October 2022 issue of Model Aviation.

A high-wing, box-fuselage-type model might be the ticket to enjoy building models. Start with something simple, something that’s easier to fly, a kit that has great instructions, and an aircraft that you can easily transport. With something you build yourself, you can change the colors, motor(s), wheels, and lots of other stuff without really changing the basic airframe, and it will be unique at the field.

This is the completed model, at least for now. You can always add additional details.

It won’t be a model that you have little time invested in without knowledge of its actual construction or a lack of understanding about how all of the parts are shaped, sanded, and glued in sync to work together. Another benefit is that balsa easily glues back together if you have all of the parts after an accident.

New kit-cutter technology to design and laser-cut the kit offers you much better parts to start with than if the kit were die-cut or "die-crunched," as we used to say. There is much less sanding involved, and the finished model fits together almost like a puzzle. The Old School Model Works Robinhood 25, as are all of the others in this line, is laser-cut and carefully packaged, with all of the parts packed in plastic.

The adventure begins. Kits typically come in boxes, with everything inside plastic wrapped and secure.

On the wing spar construction, be sure to sand the tips of the spars so that they will easily slide into the ribs.

Building

Building a model turns a stack of wood into your very own aircraft. When I take a balsa model to the field, more often than not the first question I’m asked is, "Whose ARF is that?" I politely tell them it’s not an ARF but a model I built myself.

Sometimes people will ask me, "Where did you get the graphics for it?" I tell them that I cut them out of covering that I had left over from another project or from scraps in the shop. All it really takes to do that is a straightedge, covering, a few sharp X-Acto blades, and some masking tape.

One of the cool things that Old School Model Works does is offer two-views of all of its models. You can download them, print them, and play with different color schemes.

Building a kit, as opposed to assembling an ARF, also improves your modeling skills. You learn about the center of gravity for the best airplane performance, glue joints, what glues to use and those to avoid, the importance of adding hardwood or plywood braces to the back of the firewall, and the importance of making landing gear work correctly.

Dry-fit the forward fuselage together. Add the adhesive after you are sure that everything fits.

Hinge-slot cutting is done with a neat tool from AeroBroach. It comes with three blades, but you’ll need to supply the handle.

The Robinhood 25 has a 51-inch wingspan and has laser-cut parts and a well-thought-out build booklet included. You even receive check-off boxes in the booklet so that you don’t skip steps. The fully assembled model will fit into many SUVs, such as my Honda CRV.

Much of the hardware is made in the US and is included with the kit. You can use it or maybe source something you have in your shop. If this is your first build or first airplane, be sure to have someone check it out and help you with the first flight. When you are comfortable with it, have fun!

There are basic sections, including the wing that is built first, then the fuselage, and finally, the tail surfaces. There is enough wood in the kit for the model, but try to use all of the small leftover parts first. Don’t throw away any cut-off pieces of wood; you will need these later.

The rudder and elevators on this model were mostly made from scraps from the kit that were kept in the box. One of the neat things about the Robinhood 25 is that you can add any sort of color scheme. Many modelers simply let their imaginations go wild. With some additions on your part, you can make this look like a Curtiss Robin full-scale aircraft.

Basic modeling tools are used, including a hobby saw, 30-minute epoxy, CA medium glue, and wood glue, as well as an X-Acto knife, sanding blocks, soldering gun and solder, and an UltraCote iron to attach the film covering to the airframe.

Before covering the fuselage, I assembled the preshaped landing gear and wrapped it with copper wire and flux then soldiered the two sections together. I cut out the plastic windows using the templates and plastic sheet that were supplied in the kit. I also added the servos, motor, ESC, and control rods (not included). This allows you to use what you are comfortable with.

When I cover a model, I start with the bottom of the wing and the top of the wing then the bottom fuselage. When I get to the sides, I cut 1/4-inch or smaller strips of covering after I seal the windows to the fuselage with something such as canopy glue and let it set overnight on each side. I use the strips to cover the upright and horizontal areas where the overhang of the clear plastic windows is.

I cover the sides from back to front until I cover the outer edges of the firewall. You can add a dummy engine or let the 25-size electric motor hang out there. I used Hitec standard servos and Hitec ESCs in the model. Wheels were added from a scrap box as well.

Another modeling skill is to make your own control rods from hardwood dowels. I used hardwood dowels from Lowe’s and 2/56 threaded rods from Du-Bro Products. The company sells four packs of 12-inch threaded rods and you can also find 24-inch threaded rods.

These are some of the basic modeling tools that are used during construction. Note that there are several sanding blocks.

Be careful when cutting these threaded rods to length. Make a bend in the end of the rod going into the dowel. Drill a hole in the wooden dowel (centered) roughly an inch from the end. Cut a gap into the dowel deep enough to install the threaded rod into it to keep it secure.

I wrap the assembly end with sewing thread and cover the end (where the slot is cut into the wood) onto the control rod. I then add thin CA glue and a little kicker, or you can use newer processes to add control rods as well. The choice is yours.

Follow the build booklet and dry-fit all of the parts before adding epoxy or CA glue. It is best to confirm that the parts fit before they are glued together.

When deciding on the color for your covering, a contrasting color scheme works every time. I selected UltraCote orange and navy blue. Be sure that the fuselage wing saddle and wing fit snugly and check the wing position front to back and side to side. Go back and recheck every part of your assembly. If this is your first model, have someone who is experienced check it out and give it that first flight.

I will likely add some graphics later on both the wing and the fuselage. I will also add some stripes and a few more items to give it something to stand out with at the field. I hope you enjoy it as much as I did.

Fair skies and tailwinds.