Refinishing Your Model
Written by Walt Moucha. A little time and money is all it takes. Full tutorial in the August 2015 issue of Model Aviation.
I’ve been involved in modeling since the age of four with Free Flight, Control Line, and eventually RC. It has been a learning curve. There are always new products to learn about. Don’t be afraid of asking for help because most modelers are always willing to help in any way they can. Florida is graced with good weather most of the year and there are plenty of swap meets to attend. It is possible to get some outstanding deals, as I did a few months ago. Both of the models that I purchased—a Dynaflite Super Cub and a Jodel Robin ARF made by Graupner—needed some tender loving care. The Super Cub had Sig Coverall and was originally painted with enamel. Repainting was not a problem; it simply needed cleaning with a household detergent such as Simple Green. I tested it on a small spot to make sure the finish was not affected. After I cleaned it up, I used 16-ounce cans of automobile lacquer primer in rust or gray then I lightly sanded the entire model with 320-grit sandpaper. If necessary, you can fill in any dents with automobile lacquer putty. There is no problem with any of the paints on the market not bonding to primer. For the past 10 to 15 years, I have been using spray cans of ColorPlace enamel paint from Walmart. It’s a little on the pricey side at 99¢! You can also use any of the Rust-Oleum products. Check the drying times on these enamels. Some brands require eight hours while others require seven days. If you do not follow the suggested drying time, the final coat can attack the paint like paint remover. A few light coats are better than one heavy coat. Always paint lighter colors first and darker colors last. For masking, I use Frog Tape, also sold at Walmart. It comes in widths from 3/4 inch up to 2 inches and is roughly $5 a roll. I only use this tape for the paint lines because it has an edge that seals itself as soon as paint touches it. For all other masking, I use the cheapest masking tape I can find. When I refinished the Super Cub, I was lazy. I left all of the surfaces on the model and didn’t even remove the Zenoah G38 engine. I did remove the floats to make handling easier, leaving me with the fuselage and two wing panels. The cowl needed to be strengthened. I used 3/4-ounce glass cloth and epoxy resin. I applied only one layer of cloth on the inside and outside, plus one additional coat of resin. The cowl is now much stronger. Next came a few coats of lacquer primer, along with a light sanding between the coats, and the cowl was ready for paint. The model’s stars and bars are from Major Decals. They go on easily with warm water and a drop of dish soap, allowing you to easily position the decal. I used a paper towel to blot it dry, working from the center outward. This removed the bubbles and excess water and then I let it air dry. If you need to use lettering on your project, you have a few choices. Staples sell a variety of letters ranging from 2 to 6 inches in size and are available in several colors for roughly $10. Using stencils is another way to go. Stencils come in sizes up to 6 inches in height for approximately $6. When using stencils, tape them together and position them on the model. If the stencils do not lie flat, use a hole punch on double-sided tape to punch out a few circles to stick on the back side of the stencil. Peel off the other side of the tape and gently press the stencil down on the model. When using this method, the paint line will not be crisp and fine. It is important to spray paint down directly on the stencil and not at an angle to avoid paint bleeding under the stencil. Light coats of paint are the way to go. Do not remove stencils until the paint is completely dry or the paint edges might smear. Lettering with the stencil method was popular during the early years of aviation. Its scalelike effect is close to the real McCoy. After stenciling US NAVY on the top of the wing, it was time to select the numbers and letters on the fuselage. Why not use my wife’s and my initials, along with the year we were married? I used our anniversary date for the numbers. I tried a different technique to finish the floats. If you do a lot of float flying, as I do, sooner or later floats will take on water. I purchased a product called FlexSeal, which is a rubberized sealant. The 16-ounce spray cans are available in black or white. Only one can was needed to seal the floats. The finishing coat was silver enamel from Walmart. After I completed the model, I took the Cub out to my club field. People found it hard to believe that it cost roughly $18 in paint and tape to refinish it!
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